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When assembling a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate familiar high-end venues. However, situated prominently among these culinary giants is a modest salonu located in a distant part of north London.

An Shocking Recognition

This little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. The honour has left the family utterly astonished.

“I am completely surprised,” states a owner’s son, referring to his parents’ dedication that led to their modest restaurant earning such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The little venue, which was a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its original character. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the cuisine, and this establishment certainly delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender texture.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into many times that figure.

The Creed of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite restaurants. “I feel really happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this culinary achievement.